ProGCC V2 Build Guide
Video Guide
Install Guide
Notice that this board has the additional capacitor fix soldered into place, any boards you purchase directly from HandHeldLegend will come with this capacitor pre-soldered onto the motherboard.
Shell Trimming
We recommend trimming this post down as far as you can when building a ProGCC controller, this will relieve stress on the USB-C port of the controller. We recommend using flush cutters in order to achieve this.
Insert the sync button and well as the light pipe at the top of the console, they will just slide into place.
The black piece goes over top of the button and light pipe and gets secured down with two 6mm silver screws from our phillips head screw kit.
Now we add our motherboard and two screws to hold it in place. Use two 6mm silvers screws from the phillips head screw kit.
Next up is the light pipe at the bottom of the controller, it gets secured down with the smallest screw in our phillips head screw kits.
Extremerate painted buttons are only recommended for OEM or Extremerate branded shells. The paint can cause fitment issues with other aftermarket shells.
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Moving onto the front half of the controller, we can put our buttons into place in the front shell, followed by their membranes.
Each of the membranes can then be placed over the buttons.
You may need to modify your minus membrane if it does not press correctly. You will need to trim down the inner circle of plastic down the the section just below it. We recommend using flush cutters for this as the plastic is very soft.
The white PCB from the ProGCC kit can then be placed over top of the buttons and their membranes. It then gets screwed down with two 6mm screws on both sides of the board. Leave the middle screw holes empty for later.
Starting with the ribbon cable, place the middle of the cable into the frame.
The bottom half of the ribbon cable needs to be under the plastic piece and sitting on the two pegs that hold it into place. If it's not going under the plastic piece then the cable is not seated properly.
The top half of the ribbon cable will go over the peg and then press down past the locking tab. Repeat these steps on the other half of the ribbon cable.
We want to make sure that our ribbon cable goes over these screw holes, so it does not get destroyed by the screw. Some of the ribbon cables have addhessive on the bottom that will allow it to be glued to the frame, if yours does have this then make sure to glue it down. Otherwise make sure the ribbon is going over the hole.
Once you have your ribbon cable seated correctly, it should look like this.
Next comes the bottom membranes, they simply get pulled through the holes in the frame.
The top membranes get placed over the peg and then get hooked down by the silicone.
The L and R buttons both have plastic tabs that will need to be placed inside of the frame before they are snapped down into place. These pieces of plastic help hold the button into the frame.
Snap both L and R into place.
The trigger buttons will get held in place with a metal rod that will slide all the way through the button.
You may have to wiggle the rod back and forth a couple times in order to get it to slide easily.
You will know it is fully seated when the rod lines up with the plastic edge as shown here. Do this to both sides of the controller.
Place your trigger assembly onto the white PCB and snap the center circle into place. You may need to use your thumb and middle finger in order to get it to snap correctly.
You'll know it's fully snapped down when the top of the controller lines up perfectly.
Now we will insert our two 6mm silver screws from the phillips head screw kits into the remaining screw holes. We will also connect the ribbon cable for the triggers to the white PCB.
Connect and fold your ribbon cable. We do a total of four folds with the metal contacts facing upwards on the final fold. From the side profile you can see that it will not catch on the stick. Check out our YouTube Video for a visual guide on how to fold the cable.
Connect the ribbon cable to the white PCB of the ProGCC kit.
Make sure from the side that the ribbon cable won't catch the stick as you close the two halves of the controller together.
Two 7mm black screws will go into the top two holes for the ProGCC. You may need a longer screw driver in order to reach them, the Mako driver from iFixIt will not be able to reach these particular screws.
Our second to last step is to put on the battery cover and insert the final four 7mm screws into the battery cover.
Last but not least you can put the grips of the controller on, and insert the two 8.5mm screws into the ends of the grips.
