GBC IPS Retro Pixel with Laminated Lens | Install & Shell Trim Guide
We highly recommend purchasing the pre-cut shells from FunnyPlaying to avoid pressure issues caused by trimming the shell yourself. As per our policy, once an LCD kit has been installed, it no longer qualifies for replacements.
- Test the kit before installation! Once the display is mounted it cannot always be safely removed. We ask that you test the kit by hooking it up before removing the screen protector and before fully mounting the display.
- LCD may break if put under too much pressure or dropped. Please exercise extreme caution when installing.
- Damage to console or LCD may occur if you do not trim the cartridge port pins. Exercise caution when trimming pins, wear eye protection to protect from pin debris when cutting the metal. Damage caused by these pins are not covered under our return or exchange policy.
The Funnyplaying GBC Q5 Retro Pixel 2.0 kit comes with a pre-adhered Lens to the LCD for both convenience and added functionality. Please visit the product page to review the included items with this kit to ensure you have all that is needed for the proper install. Below shows how you will need to trim your shell to make this kit fit correctly if not using the shell by Funnyplaying for this kit, as well as, a full installation.
This trim is necessary for all shells except for the one designed for this kit by FunnyPlaying. We recommend using their shell, however, if you use any other shell be sure to make the modified space for the LCD with the pre-adhered lens as precise as possible.
First, ensure you have all the components to the kit. This includes the LCD with lens, touch ribbon, large ribbon, static film, 2 long wires, and 1 short wire. Please note that the size and shape of the touch ribbon may vary but functions the same.
Begin with trimming the area neeeded for the LCD with the pre-adhered lens.
Gently place the LCD face down into the front of the shell. This is going to help with how we will trim the shell.
You can also use any form of tape to keep it in place when modifying the shell for the most accurate cut. Then make small marks on where the Lens adhesives meet the edge of the LCD.
With those marks, we can draw vertical lines from these marks on both sides, to show where the shell will need to be cut. We used tape as a guide but you can also use a ruler for the most accurate results.
Now we can start cutting right down the lines on each side, as well as the top part up to the lip, as shown below.
After making those 3 cuts, you should be able to gently bend the frame out to make sure you did it right but DO NOT pull it out just yet.
Finish the bottom cut right up to the lip just like you did up top, and now with all the cuts made, you should be able to pop the cut frame right out. Your shell will now look similar to what you see below.
Now on the inside of the shell, the bottom lip is going to need some slight trimming as well. Using whichever tool at your disposal, we are going to remove that lip so that it is flush with shell. See the next couple images on what we are going for.
Now take the lens again, and attempt a test placement into the shell the correct way to see how we did. If there is any resistance/blockage, DO NOT force it in. Simply remove it, see where some more trimming/adjustments are needed, and then try again.
Inside view below. Ensure the small ribbon from the LCD doesn't get caught on anything when your doing this test fit in the shell.
Once you are certain the above modifications are complete, please very lightly sand down any edges you may see in the cut to ensure the plastic from the shell does not damage the LCD with the pre-adhered lens.
Start by pre tinning the START and SELECT points on the large ribbon cable.
The begin pre tinning the Touch (TCH) and Power (PWR) points on the other side.
Slide the cable firmly all the way into the ribbon port on the board. Press the clamp pieces down to hold it firmly in place.
Solder the small wire from the PWR spot on the ribbon to the solder point "C" near the power switch
Next pre tin these spots on the motherboard as indicated below. This will be for the START and SELECT. See below the START is right above the SELECT.
Solder the respective components like shown below with the two long wires.
Lay the ribbon on top of the back of the LCD, and fold over the small ribbon from the LCD to click in place on the large ribbon.
Here, we are using some kapton tape to help hold the ribbon in place while we finish the build.
Trim the cartridge port pins to prevent damaging the LCD during assembly.
Flip the board over, and now you will solder the touch cable on the other spot of the large ribbon, like shown below.
If you have a shorter ribbon cable than seen above, you will still solder to the same point. However, it will sit in the shell like this.
Now carefully do another test placement of the LCD/Lens into the shell like we did earlier, The best way to do this is starting at an angle at the bottom, then push it into place.
And finally, once your certain the placement is good, you can remove the two small adhesives on the back of the Lens, stick it into place permanently, and finish closing up your shell. Remove the film from the Lens, and your all set! *See more info below on how to operate some of the new functions with the 2.0 kit*
- Hold down START and SELECT together for a few seconds, the "GAME" on the lens should be the only word lit up. This is "Mode 1." Here you can use the SELECT and START button to move the display image down and up respectively.
- Holding a press on the touch sensor for a few seconds, will bring it to "Mode 2." You should see "Boy" lit up now. Here You can use SELECT and START to move the display image left and right respectively
- Holding a press on the touch sensor again for a few seconds, will bring it "Mode 3." You should see "Color" lit up. Use START and SELECT separately to cycle through the different color options.
- Hold down START and SELECT together again for a few seconds to confirm, and exit.
- To cycle the different Pixel modes, tap and hold where the touch sensor is for a few seconds, and the LCD will change to different screen modes each time you perform this.
- Built-in 5 display effects.
- Full pixel copy display (display the highest brightness, gorgeous and concise)
- Classic GBC display (perfectly restore the original display effect)
- Classic RGB display (perfectly restore the original display effect, and the pixel gap looks smaller, the brightness will be slightly darker)
- RGB display (closest to the original display, but the brightness is very low)
- Grid line display (close to the display effect of DMG)
If you have any questions or concerns, please reach out to firstname.lastname@example.org